1.  Start with your center sugarhouse block.  Find your four rail fence strips.  Sew the shorter two strips to each side of the sugarhouse.  Then sew the longer two strips to the top and bottom of the sugarhouse.

2.  Measure across the center of the quilt side to side.  Cut two strips (of any coordinating fabric) 1 ¼ inches by the measurement you just took.  Now sew the strips to each side of the quilt.

3.  Measure across the center of the quilt top to bottom.  Cut two strips (of any coordinating fabric) 1 ¼ inches by the measurement you just took.  Now sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt.

4.  Now measure across the center of the quilt side to side; we’ll call that measurement QS for quilt size.  Measure across the center of a Bear Paw block (we’re assuming all your Bear Paw blocks are the same size); we’ll call that measurement BPS for Bear Paw size.  You’ll have to do some math now; follow the formula below:

 {QS minus [(2 times BPS) minus 0.5]} plus 0.5 = width of “coping strip”

For example, if QS = 17” and BPS = 7”, then the formula would be:
        {17 – [(2 x 7) – 0.5]} + 0.5 =
        {17 – [14 – 0.5]} + 0.5 =
        {17 – 13.5} + 0.5 =
        3.5 + 0.5 = width of “coping strip”
        4” = width of “coping strip”

5.  Now cut 2 strips of fabric measuring the width of your “coping strip” by BPS.

6.  Sew a Bear Paw block on either side of each coping strip; orient the Bear Paw blocks as shown in the picture of the quilt above.

7.  Now sew these units to the top and bottom of the quilt with the points of the Bear Paw blocks oriented away from the center as shown in the picture of the quilt above.

8.  Sew together two Bear Paw Blocks with points oriented outward, away each other; do this three more times using all the remaining Bear Paw blocks.  After sewing, you will have made four units.  Measure one unit across the center parallel to the long side; we’ll call that measurement BPU for Bear Paw Unit.  Measure across the center of the quilt from top to bottom; we’ll call that measurement QSTB for quilt size top to bottom.  You’ll have to do some math again; follow the formula below:

{QSTB minus [(2 times BPU) minus 0.5]} plus 0.5 = width of “side coping strip”

For example, if QSTB = 30” and BPU = 13.5”, the formula would be:
        {30 – [(2 X 13.5) – 0.5]} + 0.5 =
        {30 – [27 – 0.5]} + 0.5 =
        {30 – 26.5} + 0.5 =
        3.5 + 0.5 =
        4” = width of “side coping strip”

9.  Now cut two strips of fabric measuring the width of your “side coping strip” by the width (short side) of the Bear Paw Unit.

10.  Sew a Bear Paw Unit to each side of the two “side coping strip” orienting the Bear Paw Units the same way.

11.  Now sew the Bear Paw Unit strips to either side of the quilt orienting the points of the Bear Paw Blocks away from the center as shown in the picture above.  As a note, there is an “Amish” mistake in the layout of the top left Bear Paw block; please disregard.  (A NOTE FROM MARILYNN:  I have corrected my mistake and will have a new picture out soon showing the most recent block strip additions.)

12.  Now cut out strips (up to 2.5” wide) for a narrow border around the entire top.  The width of this narrow border is your choice, but should be no wider than 2” inches when the quilt is finished

13.  Now you need to construct the side borders of trees and maple leafs.  It is up to you how you add the “coping strips.”  You can add three “coping strips” between each of the four blocks as shown in the picture above.  Or you can sew sets of two of the tree blocks together and sets of two of the maple leaf blocks together, and add a “coping strip” in the middle like you did for the Bear Paw blocks.  Or you could sew all four tree blocks together and all four maple leaf blocks together and add a “coping strip” to the top and bottom of both strips.  The only recommendation at this point would be to orient the trees upright with the top of the tree pointing up to the top of the quilt.  Once you decide how to make your side borders of trees and maple leafs, sew each border to either side of the quilt.

14. Find your mountain block strip and your flying geese block strip. Sew the flying geese strip to the top of the mountain block matching the centers. Then sew this strip unit to the top of your quilt again matching the centers. Press all seams toward the center of your quilt.

15. Now find your water and sand strips. Sew them together orienting the sand toward the center of the quilt. Again match centers. Then sew the combined strip unit to the bottom of your quilt.

Now your quilt is almost  finished. You need to make a 6.5” border around your quilt which will have four 6.5” square cornerstones. You have made one, the outhouse. You may prepare your border strips now or after you complete your cornerstones. I suggest a 4.5” inner border and a 2.5” outer border. I am using the same fabric for my inner border as I used for the two previous borders. I am then adding a 2.5” outer fabric in a contrasting color for the outer border and binding it with the same fabric as my 4.5” inner border. This is also my backing fabric. I am giving these directions now so that you may plan ahead and purchase or choose fabric from your stash.

Suggestions and directions for your cornerstone blocks will be given at the May meeting. You will be able to complete them with fabric from your stash. I will try to prepare regular piecing directions as well as paper piecing directions or directions using templates. Some of the other cornerstones I am preparing are a Vermont star, a fish, a hot air balloon, a house and a mallard duck. If you have other suggestions, please call or email me. I will also tell you the story about your quilt and have suggestions for how to finish your quilt over the summer to make it “your own."   I am planning on appliquéing some animals and fish to my quilt top before assembling the finished quilt.

If you have any questions, please call or email me at 827-3199 or jessiman@ncctv.net . Thanks for all your input.

Marilynn